An alternative Costa Brava

Beyond the landscapes and routes that appear in all the guides, the Costa Brava is a colour palette full of varied nuances, where its towns are unique paradises with hidden spots that you may not have heard of, away from the traditional tourist routes.

Located in the north, on the border with France. If you are a lover of true crime, especially the Catalan crime series Crims (Crimes), you should know that the pine tree in the episode La Noia de Portbou (The girl from Portbou) is here, near the cemetery where the remains of Walter Benjamin are found, the German thinker who lost his life in strange circumstances and to whom they have dedicated an escape town.

Away from the coast, in the southernmost north of the region, in this small town stands the majestic Peralada Castle, where the well-known International Music Festival is held. It is also the land of wines and wineries and we recommend that you take a walk through the Albera mountain range and enjoy a picnic among the vineyards.

To the south of Portbou, you will find this quintessential fishing village, where life is enjoyed all year round. Among its more unusual charms, you will discover the Borró nudist beach. Located on Cape Ras, in a natural area of fine golden sand, it has great ecological value and is a magical place to bathe as naked as the day you were born!

Further south, a short distance away from the picture-perfect landscapes, in the middle of the mountains you will find the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. It is the perfect place for a spiritual retreat for both body and mind.

We continue down towards the Cap de Creus Natural Park, a landscape of great biological and geological importance, and which forms part of the municipality of Cadaqués. It is also where the locals meet on January 1 to enjoy xurros and hot chocolate, and to watch the first rays of sunlight from the restaurant there, which has an extensive menu, as well as for groups, and includes three cosy rustic apartments, ideal for couples or families who want to enjoy the Cap de Creus experience to the full.

This charming town is known for the singing of the “Habaneras” and the cremat (a drink with rum, sugar, coffee, lemon and cinnamon that is set alight). If you would like to see the first place where these get togethers were held, stand in front of the Can Batlle tavern (now closed), on Carrer de Les Voltes and imagine a group of locals there, singing and drinking rum.

Famous for its pastel-coloured houses, its medieval castle and its crystalline Mediterranean coves which feature in dozens of adverts and films. We offer an alternative to escape from the crowds without missing out on the spectacular sunset: Red Island beach (Platja de l‘Illa Roja).

It is one of the most charming medieval towns in the world: cobblestone streets, stone houses and a beautiful Gothic church. To discover its most traditional dish, rice, we suggest a guided tour among the rice fields and vineyards. Forget about rushing around, because this is a slow destination that should be cooked over a low heat. 

What almost no one knows about Torroella is that, here, aside from its spectacular castle, you can also enjoy one of the most stunning sunrises in the entire region, with views of L’Estartit and the Medes Islands, the finest marine reserve in all of Europe, where you can learn to  scuba dive while looking after the environment. 

In addition to being the town where Orson Welles filmed Pandora with Ava Gardner, it is said that in medieval times there was a community of witches who met on the beach (Cala Bona)  to perform rituals, spells and other dark arts.