Camins de Ronda: six spectacular one-day hikes on the Costa Brava

How wonderful to have all the time in the world to discover the whole of the GR-92 route that stretches from Blanes to Portbou. Being able to walk the various sections that extend along more than 200 km of coastline at your leisure. Discovering an infinite number of incredible landscapes and staying in emblematic towns on the Costa Brava.

But, if time is not on your side and you only have one day, don’t despair. We have put together six route options that will enable you to experience all the joys of the Costa Brava’s Camins de Ronda coastal paths in just one day. All six will take you to spectacular places, with stunning beaches, coves and cliffs, wild spots, paths surrounded by lush vegetation, charming villages and many more surprises.

The paths that were once used by fishermen, smugglers and border patrols make for a hiking experience that promises some of the Costa Brava’s most impressive panoramic views.

Blanes to Tossa de Mar

The almost 21 km of constantly undulating terrain that connects Blanes and Tossa de Mar is typical of the Camins de Ronda. If you don’t have time to do the whole stretch in one go, you can always divide it into two sections: Blanes to Lloret de Mar and Lloret de Mar to Tossa de Mar.

This route is a treasure trove of stunning beauty spots, scenic splendour and historical treats, starting with the Sant Joan castle, which presides over the bay of Blanes. The watchtowers of the sanctuary of Santa Cristina in Lloret de Mar, Punta d’en Rosaris (vantage point and the statue Dona marinera, or Seaman’s Wife), Punta des Cards and many other points along the route offer hikers picture-postcard views and a chance to watch the waves breaking against the cliffs.

You will alternate between cliff-hugging paths running beside the sea, meandering stone steps, narrow winding tracks, Mediterranean forests, coves and secluded beaches. And then, when you reach your destination, your efforts will be rewarded with one of the most beautiful views of the day – Codolar cove with its backdrop of walls and towers of Tossa de Mar old town.

Sant Feliu de Guíxols to Palamós

The 17 km stretch of coastal path that runs between Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Palamós really has it all. The first section winds around the coast to reveal the first coves of the day, such as Cala del Molí and Cala Maset, as well as Sant Pol beach. Then, as you approach s’Agaró, the path takes you along a noucentista promenade designed by the architect Rafel Masó in 1916.

And its treats don’t stop there. Skirting around the mouth of the Riudaura river, the trail runs along the Platja d’Aro promenade before zigzagging between cliffs, small coves and coarse sand beaches on the way to Sant Antoni de Calonge. Camins de Ronda at its finest, with winding steps, climbs, descents and gorgeous views. The final few kilometres are a little easier on the legs and at the end of the route, you can enjoy a welcome rest on Palamós beach. If you feel up to it, you can top off your day with a visit to the Fishing Museum.

Palamós to Calella de Palafrugell

As we have already said, the Costa Brava’s Camins de Ronda are a kaleidoscope of surprises and this section between Palamós and Calella de Palafrugell is no exception, offering some of the Mediterranean’s most spectacular views. A climb up to the top of Cap Gros and Cap Roig will reveal two of the best; we’re sure you’ll agree, the rewards are well worth the effort.

A number of hidden gems await you along the way, such as the ruins of Sant Esteve Castle on La Fosca beach and small clusters of fishermen’s huts dating from the sixteenth century. The path guides you as best it can through this area’s wild stretches of rugged landscape, sporadically dipping down to reveal small heavenly coves nestled at the foot of the cliffs and wild beaches, such as Platja del Castell in s’Alguer.

The whole route is about 11 km long and can be walked in around 3 hours, although you will find it hard to resist pausing along the way to enjoy the natural beauty or taking a small detour to savour the seaside delights of Calella de Palafrugell.

Calella de Palafrugell to Tamariu

The relatively shorter 7-km-long section of the Cami de Ronda that connects Calella de Palafrugell with Tamariu runs over gently sloping terrain, making it accessible for most. The perfect opportunity, then, to take a bit of time to enjoy places like the Sant Sebastià lighthouse, a vantage point set at 170 m above sea level that offers one of the Costa Brava’s most stunning views. In addition to the iconic lighthouse built in the nineteenth century, this route also includes an eighteenth-century chapel, a fifteenth-century watchtower and an Iberian site that dates back to the sixth century BC. We are sure you’ll agree that, with so much history offer, it would be a shame not to linger a while.

The clifftop descent drops down through forests and fields. The pines steel the limelight from the sea for a moment, but it’s not long before the turquoise waters are back to tempt you in, temperatures permitting, for a refreshing dip at Cala Pedrosa, Platja dels Lliris or one of the many coves along the shores of the charming and picturesque village of Tamariu.

Cadaqués to Cap de Creus

We will take it for granted that you have already had the opportunity to wander the streets of Cadaqués and have fallen under the spell of its magical bay. So, here we will focus on the joys of the Cami de Ronda route that will lead you up to the Cap de Creus lighthouse on the easternmost tip of the Iberian Peninsula, where the Pyrenees give way to the sea.

The trail here is signposted with red and green markings (as we head off the GR-92) and, although the going changes to rough, rocky terrain, it is nothing that a pair of sturdy walking shoes won’t be able to cope with. Follow the path to the right, heading in a northerly direction, to discover an abundance of small coves, which you can get down to for a refreshing dip.

You can opt to end your hike with the climb up to the lighthouse or you can add an extra dose of incredible scenery by taking a detour off the main path to explore the geological wonders of one of the jewels in the Cap de Creus Natural Park’s crown, the Tudela site, known for the incredible rock formations that inspired Salvador Dalí in his works, such as The Great Masturbator.

Llançà to Colera

Let’s end with an easy route that will allow you plenty of time to enjoy a swim at one of the coves or beaches you will find along the way. A 7 km-long stretch of pure tranquillity awaits you on a gently sloping path that runs through a little-known landscape, linking two small towns in Empordà: Lança and Colera.

This section of coastal path includes a variety of beaches; some wide and sweeping with lots of services that are ideal for families, and others wilder and more secluded. It also takes you to small idyllic coves nestled among the cliffs, which you can access by taking a detour off the main path. There is a long list of places to swim: Grifeu beach, Cros beach, Canyelles beach, Garbet beach… and many more. If you look at a map, you’ll see that you will be able to get down to the water and enjoy a dip in the sea whenever the mood takes you.

> A complete route from Blanes to Portbou
In her book, Hiking the Costa Brava. Coastal Paths, travel writer and photographer, Sherry Ott, recounts her experiences and provides some top tips on hiking the Girona coast.
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